On my website on the main page, you will see a tab that says "Equipment". This is just a list of equipment you may want to have for long range shooting. You may want/need more or less equipment. This is just a pretty basic list, but I don't get into specifics. Most of the stuff on the list is going to be subjective, depending on your needs and budget. I specifically want to try to save you money, time and frustration from buying the wrong equipment, or buying cheap equipment when you should have saved your money to buy a better quality product. I also what to show you what equipment you should spend money on and where you can get away with something less expensive. Unfortunately, you may not know what you want until you buy equipment and figure out what your true needs and personal preference are. I'll put this list in order of importance (in my opinion), to get you on the fast track to getting on the range and shooting targets.
RIFLE
So, obviously the rifle comes first. You can't shoot if you don't have a rifle. But, up front, I'm going to say that when it comes to spending money, I would spend more money on the scope. Let me give you an example. If you have a $3,000 budget, I would recommend buying a $2,000 scope and a $1,000 rifle. I have owned and shot many rifles. I can honestly say that none of them have shot over 1 MOA at 100 yards. My savage Mkll with subsonic ammo will shoot under 1 MOA 100 yards. In fact, I would almost tell you to buy a $500 rifle and a $2,500 scope. The only reason I'm not is because, what I would consider one of the best scope on the market, you can buy on sale for $1,800. Ok, so far I have talked about scopes more than rifles, but that's because I want you to know you can't buy accuracy. Well, not really. Somewhere in that $600 to $1,000 range, you have a diminutive return. Pick a rifle with the features you like and run with it.
I have a Ruger American Ranch Rifle that is relatively inexpensive that shoots well under sub-moa. I bought it because it was inexpensive. I have a Remington 700 5R SPS TAC with a very expensive fully adjustable stock that looks amazing, but doesn't shoot quite as well; however, it is just under 1 moa. My other Remington 700 5R Gen ll is a 1/2 moa. And my prized possession, my Tikka T3x Tac A1, shoots so well I have never really measured the group size. I find myself saying things that would make God not so happy, because I am still surprised at some of the hits I make. My point being, just pick a rifle.
If you're on a budget get a Savage or Remington. For a little bit more money, get a Tikka. For something short of a custom rifle, get a Tikka T3x Tac A1.
SCOPE
I believe having a quality scope is probably the single most important piece of equipment you can buy. So much so, I would rather you go without other pieces of equipment and put that money into a better scope. Picking a scope, just like picking a rifle, is personal preference. I can't tell you what's right for you, but I can tell you what you you should be looking for.
1. Matching reticle and turrets. In my opinion, if the reticle and turrets don't match, it's trash. I don't want it.
2. Target turrets or exposed turrets. This is a must. I will be dialing in my dope and need to make corrections.
3. Tracking. The scope needs to track perfectly. If I dial 10 mils, it needs to move 10 mils every time.
4. Clear glass. Now this is very subjective. Look through every scope possible to get a feel (or I should say visual) of the difference between glass clarity.
5. Ruggedness. I need a scope that will work when I need it to, and won't break from everyday use (or even a little abuse). Even better, one that won't break under heavy use and abuse. (Don't abuse your scope; they're expensive, but it should take it).
6. Overall quality and warranty. To me, this says everything about a company. I want a company that builds equipment so well they will stand behind it 100%, no questions asked.
My recommendations:
Budget scope - SWFA SS Fixed Power. In fact, I like these scopes so much that I have one on my .22 LR and 50 BMG.
Mid range - Vortex Viper PST
Top - Vortex Razor Gen ll (My favorite) or schmit & Bender PMll
QUALITY AMMUNITION
I can't stress this enough: Don't shoot cheep ammunition in your precision rifle. Even if you're on a budget and bought a budget rifle, it is a precision rifle. Federal Gold Medal or Hornady Match is pretty much the only factory ammunition I shoot.
HEARING PROTECTION
Don't forget, I said I would put this in order of importance. Without hearing protection, you're only going to shoot once, if even that (if you're smart). I run a silencer, so this is a non issue for me. However, the person next to me may not. So, I use the orange foam ear plugs with Howard Leight Impact Sport Electronic Earmuffs.
CLEANING KIT
I say a cleaning kit, but not to clean the gun, so much as to clear a stuck bullet or case. Learn from my mistakes. Nothing sucks more than getting a stuck case and being a long way from home. You won't be shooting anymore. I use the basic M16 field cleaning kit. It comes with metal rods long enough to work with a 24 inch barrel.
SANDBAGS FOR TOE SUPPORT
Please don't spend money on sand bags. Get a ziplock bag and put sand in it and put it into a sock. I use a sock filled with rice.
D.O.P.E. BOOK, TABLES, AND CHARTS
For a long time I used a small spiral note pad and wrote everything down. Well, at least everything I could remember to write down. I forgot to write down so much, it was almost pointless. For a dope book, I use storm tactical, and for dope charts I use Ballistic XLR.
LASER RANGEFINDER
This is another piece of equipment I did without for a long time. Mostly because I couldn't justify spending a few hundred dollars on one, when I could barely afford ammo. So, when I did buy one I bought a good one, but not what I needed. I focused more on cost than on what I needed, and it ended up costing me more money. I bought a SIG KILO 1200, and it works great. The problem is, its max distance is 1200 yards, and will only work on steel plates out to about 600 yards. Well, I shoot out to 1400 yards just as often as I shoot to 600. So, while I can confirm targets up close (mid-range), it's useless at longer distances where I need it the most. I have now on loan a Nikon Black Rangex 4K, and have ranged plates at a mile and tree lines at over 1800 yards. I do recommend buying a good range finder when you are ready to buy one.
BI-POD
When looking at the cost of other equipment, bipods are not that expensive. I have used a few different bipods and the main one I use is a Harris. They're about $100. I have used inexpensive ones, like Caldwell and Blackhawk, on my .22s, and they work fine. But they'll break eventually if you try to preload them. You can spend $30 - $300 on a bipod. I recommend just going with a Harris.
BALLISTIC CALCULATOR
Unless you plan on going all out and buying a very nice Kestrel, then save your money. You can find free ballistic calculators online, or very inexpensive ballistic apps. My favorite is Strelok pro.
MATHMATICAL CALCULATOR
This is just to do basic math, so don't spend a lot. Mine was about $7. Just make sure it has a solar panel.
MIL-DOT MASTER
I have one and almost never use it. In fact, the only time I use it is during dry-fire-practice, just to use it. They're about $40, so it's up to you. Maybe put that $40 toward a better range finder or ammo.
COMPASS
If you need one, you'll know. It helps with heading and calculating for coriolis. I spent about $10.
BINOCULARS
The amount you spend depends on why you use them. I mainly use them to make sure there are no people or animals down range. I sometimes use them to spot shots. I went with the best and clearest glass I could find for under $100.
SHEMAGH
I use this mainly to cover my head and face so I don't get sunburned. I also use it as cover to block the sun or rain. Worst case scenario, I can use it as a tourniquet or toilet paper. Definitely get one; they're about $12.
LASER THERMOMETER
I spent $15. Don't spend too much; this is to get your ammo temperature.
FIRE STARTING KIT
A fire starting kit is very inexpensive. I have one because you never know. It beats rubbing two sticks. I promise I know.
PENS AND PENCILS
Get both. Pens don't work well in the freezing temperatures or rain, and pencils break.
As with all equipment, it's up to you to determine what you will need and how much you can/need/want to spend. Help yourself out by doing a lot of research to select equipment. This will save you money and time. I hope this helps.
The Overwatch
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